Monday, July 25, 2022
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The attraction of a silk dressing robe – at New & Lingwood – Everlasting Model


As I wrote earlier this 12 months, I’m normally fairly conservative in the case of robes. They’re very sensible for me, thrown on early within the morning to stand up with one among my three daughters. 

They’ll nonetheless be luxurious, and superbly made. I’m good at taking care of good supplies, and might address the occasional stray soggy Corn Flake. However I’m not a person of luxurious leisure, and robes which might be overly fancy or fussy simply don’t match my life. 

Nevertheless, I nonetheless recognise {that a} ornamental silk dressing robe is a lovely factor. Should you like menswear, you’ll respect a woven-silk necktie; additionally, you will love the size and circulate of a terrific overcoat; and a dressing robe such because the silk pictured above is a mixture – a maximisation – of these two issues. You’d be a idiot to not be tempted. 

Luckily, a reader lately requested what sort of silk dressing robe I might suggest. A traditional navy spot? A quilted-lapel smoking quantity? And this gave me the excuse to contemplate the choices vicariously. 

Anybody that spends time strolling round Mayfair could have had their eye caught, in some unspecified time in the future, by the New & Lingwood robe retailer on the finish of the Piccadilly Arcade. 

There’s such a riot of brightly colored cloth: black and gold; crimson and inexperienced; throughout the summer time a procession of sugary linens in pale blue, yellow and pink. The one actual native competitors is from Favourbrook, and even they’ve fairly a couple of attire and waistcoats in plain cream or black. 

I wouldn’t be stunned if the show makes everybody that walks previous rethink whether or not they’d put on a silk robe. Or need to take into account it. Need to need it. 

I believe there’s fairly an enormous distinction between a number of the choices although. 

A black silk robe embroidered with skulls and crossed bones can look slightly foolish, no less than to me. Are you making an attempt to look harmful and hard? In a silk robe? I do know there’s the Eton connection, however extra than simply Outdated Etonians are shopping for them. 

Equally robes in gold, with quilted facings and tassels. It’s slightly an excessive amount of, too showy. 

There may be nonetheless a query of style, in different phrases. Simply as there could be when you have been shopping for patterns and colors for an additional space of your life, like curtains or tender furnishings.

Should you’re going to put on a brightly colored dressing robe, my recommendation could be to keep away from different elements of ornament. Avoid the quilting and the tassels, focusing merely on colors and patterns that you just like – as you’ll the silk in a necktie. 

I just like the peacock-patterned silk above, for instance. Though it’s clearly a daring sample, and makes use of robust color, the distinction is somewhat lower than the inexperienced and gold above, or orange and navy. In comparison with these, the pink and turquoise is kind of refined. 

I additionally like the truth that the piping is low distinction. Its tender gold is much like the cream used within the physique, and each mix with the pink and inexperienced somewhat properly. 

To me, the bright-white piping on some robes could make them look low-cost, notably with darker colors. Which is why the piping on the robe I coated earlier this 12 months was so tonal. 

The New & Lingwood robes are all finely made, in fact.

I notably just like the large, rounded form of the facings, and the way in which they roll open all the way in which right down to the hem everytime you depart the robe unbelted. Have a look at the stomach on it within the picture beneath – it’s virtually as large because the chest itself.

Additionally vital is a belt that holds its form, and doesn’t collapse when tied. Whether or not achieved by stitching or lining, it makes an enormous distinction to how elegant the robe seems. Nothing makes a dressing robe look outdated and ratty greater than a belt that has grow to be principally a shoe string.

Lots of the N&L robes are additionally made within the basement of the principle store on the opposite facet of the Arcade – one thing I’m unsure many individuals know.

This makes changes pretty straightforward, which is good. It’s simple to do one thing like take off the fold-back cuffs and shorten the sleeves, for instance, earlier than reattaching them. 

Curiously, N&L solely had a medium and an extra-large within the retailer on this sample, and I discovered the latter suited me higher. 

A medium was extra of a ‘true’ match, with the tip of the shoulder sitting proper on the purpose of my shoulder bone. However I believe a robe must be unfastened –  luxuriously so – and consequently have fullness within the physique if you cinch it on the waist. The additional massive, pictured right here, did that higher on me. 

Extra energy to those who put on silk robes and luxuriate in them. They’re actually fantastic – and now that Vanners has gone, there might be fewer round which might be made within the UK. 

From what I perceive, the tried rescue of Vanners – which had been weaving silk since 1740, and which I coated for PS again in 2009 – has now fallen by means of, leaving Stephen Walters the one mill doing this weaving at any scale. 

Let’s hope there are sufficient dandies round to maintain manufacturing going there, no less than. 

The silk robe pictured is £1,250. Linen robes are a very good various, beginning at £595. Bespoke robes are additionally attainable, from a variety of silks and different supplies.

The pyjamas pictured are brushed cotton from Anderson & Sheppard. I discover gray a very good foil for robust color, in a lot the identical method as a gray flannel swimsuit. The sneakers are Sagan Lunes from Baudoin & Lange. 

Images, Alex Natt @adnatt

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